We got up before sunrise and started to pack our things. It was 5am. We wanted to start earlier today because it would be a longer day than the ones before. We left in the dark and started walking. I accidentally left my towel hanging on the laundry rack and didn’t realize it until much too late.
Around 8:30 we stopped for tea and pastries at a little café. If we had not gone so far the day before we would have stopped there for the night.
We kept walking until 11am, when we took a quick lunch break.
There was little about the hike that was different than the other days, except that it was muddy. We spent a lot of time hiking across mesas, which was pretty cool. The sky wasn’t sure how it felt today. For most of the morning it was drizzling, but then the sun came out for a while. The entire day was pretty cloudy. Thankfully, it didn’t rain hard.
We got to the albergue in Fromista around 2:30pm and checked in, took showers, got settled, did laundry, etc. We had planned to take a bus to Leon so we could skip a few days and be sure to make it to Santiago before I had to fly home, but the tourist office was closed. We talked about it for a little while and decided to try to push a little faster and see if we could make it on foot. I didn’t feel sore at all after our 35k day, so hopefully we are in good enough shape to make it at this point.
I fell asleep for about an hour and afterwards we went out in search of a café.
We ended up getting some ice cream and hanging out at a café on the street. At 7pm we got dinner. We were pretty tired, so we headed back to the albergue for the night. It is a little weird, but it seems my biggest fear is that someone will steal my earplugs and I will never be able to sleep again. Although it is slightly ridiculous, I still keep them on my person at all times to make sure I don’t lose them.
I had a great idea for my novel today, but I didn’t bring the right journal with me. All I had with me was a small notebook. I must have been insane to think it was safe to leave my journal behind.
(Written June 3)
Friday, June 29, 2012
June 2
We left just as the sun was coming up. The sky was clear of clouds and the threat of rain had passed. Originally this stage only had 21k for us to hike. We stopped in a small café around 9:30am for tea and free wifi. At this point we had already gone 13k. The owner of the shop was very nice and gave us pendants to hang on our packs. He explained to me what they were for, but since he was speaking Spanish, I still don’t know. Anyway, they are engraved with a picture of Mary (I think), so I am sure it is something good. The owner had a little terrier that kept me company while I drank my tea. I think he wanted to share, but I don’t think puppies drink tea.
We reached the end of the stage around 11am with plenty of daylight left. We ended up getting sandwiches and talking with Rebecca and a French-Canadian pilgrim (he didn’t mention his name) before deciding to keep going. Hontanas was the next town and it was only 10k away. Since we had been pretty fast we figured we could get there by 2pm and we did.
Hontanas was a really cool town to walk into. It was at the bottom of a valley and was completely hidden by the hills before it suddenly appeared. It seems like the location for flooding or attacks, were we in the middle ages, but it looked really cool. We checked into the albergue, took showers, and did our laundry. I guess that is our usual routine, so I probably don’t need to keep writing every day. Next we went out to the supermarket to buy the next morning’s breakfast since we would be getting up early to get to Fromista and then bought some sandwiches at a café before heading back to the albergue to read while we waited for dinnertime. I spent most of the time reading the Hobbit and writing terrible poetry.
At 7pm we headed to a restaurant where they had a menu de peregrino. Halfway through dinner they seated a couple of women at the table with us. I would have liked to talk to them, but they were in a pretty deep conversation in another language. Afterwards, we went back to the albergue for the night. James 1:17
(Written June 2nd)
We reached the end of the stage around 11am with plenty of daylight left. We ended up getting sandwiches and talking with Rebecca and a French-Canadian pilgrim (he didn’t mention his name) before deciding to keep going. Hontanas was the next town and it was only 10k away. Since we had been pretty fast we figured we could get there by 2pm and we did.
Hontanas was a really cool town to walk into. It was at the bottom of a valley and was completely hidden by the hills before it suddenly appeared. It seems like the location for flooding or attacks, were we in the middle ages, but it looked really cool. We checked into the albergue, took showers, and did our laundry. I guess that is our usual routine, so I probably don’t need to keep writing every day. Next we went out to the supermarket to buy the next morning’s breakfast since we would be getting up early to get to Fromista and then bought some sandwiches at a café before heading back to the albergue to read while we waited for dinnertime. I spent most of the time reading the Hobbit and writing terrible poetry.
At 7pm we headed to a restaurant where they had a menu de peregrino. Halfway through dinner they seated a couple of women at the table with us. I would have liked to talk to them, but they were in a pretty deep conversation in another language. Afterwards, we went back to the albergue for the night. James 1:17
(Written June 2nd)
Thursday, June 7, 2012
June 1
We left the albergue at 6:30 without breakfast, but after a few km we found a bar on the side of the path where we could stop for some food. Rebecca walked up soon after and joined us at our table.
The three of us started back on The Way.
It was not a long day, but it felt longer because we ended up walking along a main road for several km and everything looked very industrial. We passed several lamp stores and if we had been in an episode of Top Gear and had vehicles, I would have seriously considered buying someone a chandelier. Once we reached Burgos the scenery began to change. Instead of the ugly asphalt streets, the road turned to cobblestone and was lined with cool little shops.
We got the to the albergue about a half an hour before it opened and sat down to wait outside with the other pilgrims. The doors opened at noon and we went inside to check in. The guy at the counter actually asked if I was Caleb's sister. He was the first person to get it right. Everyone else asks if I am either his brother or his wife. I am not sure which is worse. I am just assuming sister is not a common word to know in English like brother is. There is no way I look like a guy. We got showers and settled in before heading out in search of lunch.
We found a place where the menu said "we speak English" in big letters and decided to go there. The guy who ran the place definitely spoke very good English. He made us kababs and french fries before we went off to explore the town. We ended up getting ice cream and walking around for a while before heading back to the albergue during ciesta. We had found some laundry soap at the store and washed our clothes. We spent some time reading while everything was closed down, but then went to explore some more once everything had opened back up.
Around dinner time we decided we weren't too hungry and just bought supplies at the store to make ourselves something to eat. We put some sandwhiches together and ate in the albergue's kitchen. We ended up staying there for about an hour and talking to some other pilgrims. It was a good night, but it started to rain. Hopefully it clears up before tomorrow!
(Written June 1)
It was not a long day, but it felt longer because we ended up walking along a main road for several km and everything looked very industrial. We passed several lamp stores and if we had been in an episode of Top Gear and had vehicles, I would have seriously considered buying someone a chandelier. Once we reached Burgos the scenery began to change. Instead of the ugly asphalt streets, the road turned to cobblestone and was lined with cool little shops.
We got the to the albergue about a half an hour before it opened and sat down to wait outside with the other pilgrims. The doors opened at noon and we went inside to check in. The guy at the counter actually asked if I was Caleb's sister. He was the first person to get it right. Everyone else asks if I am either his brother or his wife. I am not sure which is worse. I am just assuming sister is not a common word to know in English like brother is. There is no way I look like a guy. We got showers and settled in before heading out in search of lunch.
We found a place where the menu said "we speak English" in big letters and decided to go there. The guy who ran the place definitely spoke very good English. He made us kababs and french fries before we went off to explore the town. We ended up getting ice cream and walking around for a while before heading back to the albergue during ciesta. We had found some laundry soap at the store and washed our clothes. We spent some time reading while everything was closed down, but then went to explore some more once everything had opened back up.
Around dinner time we decided we weren't too hungry and just bought supplies at the store to make ourselves something to eat. We put some sandwhiches together and ate in the albergue's kitchen. We ended up staying there for about an hour and talking to some other pilgrims. It was a good night, but it started to rain. Hopefully it clears up before tomorrow!
(Written June 1)
May 31
The albergue served breakfast at 7am. It was fairly simple, like most albergue breakfasts and had bread, jam, and a few other things.
We started on the way early and only took a few breaks during the day. The first was to fill up on water, the second to get soda and ice cream, and the third to get a snack. Although the elevation map showed the path having a lot of uphills and downhills, it wasn't very difficult. We reached the town where we were supposed to stay around 1pm and looked around in a nearby church before heading to a cafe for a little while. Neither of us were very tired and since it was only another 3.6km to the next town we decided to keep walking.
The rest of the walk went by fast as well and we ended up in the town of Ages. We checked into the albergue and immediately took showers. Next we went out to look for a market and buy laundry soap since we left ours in Santo Domingo by accident, but there didn't seem to be a store anywhere. Aside from the 4 albergues, the town was all residential. It was like a ghost town. The only people I saw that weren't pilgrims were running the albergue. We gave up and decided to look in the next town for a market.
We spent some time just hanging around and reading before dinner at 7pm. I had pilaf, salmon, and ice cream. They were playing Castle on the tv in the dining room, so I ended up watching that while I ate, even though it was dubbed over in Spanish and I couldn't tell what was happening. The heat was not near as bad today and we were able to stay mostly in the shade. My neck still got a sunburn, though. I am hoping the weather is able to stay like this for a few days at least. Burgos tomorrow!
(Written May 31)
The rest of the walk went by fast as well and we ended up in the town of Ages. We checked into the albergue and immediately took showers. Next we went out to look for a market and buy laundry soap since we left ours in Santo Domingo by accident, but there didn't seem to be a store anywhere. Aside from the 4 albergues, the town was all residential. It was like a ghost town. The only people I saw that weren't pilgrims were running the albergue. We gave up and decided to look in the next town for a market.
We spent some time just hanging around and reading before dinner at 7pm. I had pilaf, salmon, and ice cream. They were playing Castle on the tv in the dining room, so I ended up watching that while I ate, even though it was dubbed over in Spanish and I couldn't tell what was happening. The heat was not near as bad today and we were able to stay mostly in the shade. My neck still got a sunburn, though. I am hoping the weather is able to stay like this for a few days at least. Burgos tomorrow!
(Written May 31)
May 30
We left the hostel, around 6:45, but had to stop at the vending machines for breakfast, where Caleb realized he forgot his knee brace and we had to go back and get it. Then we left the town for real.
The hike was only 20km, but it seemed longer because we could not find a place to stop for lunch. Aside from one stop to refill our water and another to buy soda at a machine, we didn't stop walking.
At one point a man drove down the road handing out water bottles. He was from an albergue called Cuantro Cantones and according to the label on the bottle, it was their 10th anniversary.
We arrived around 12 and after getting settled, headed out in search of food. Once again, there was not much in town, but we stopped in an open supermarket and bought bread, meat, and a few other random things. We ate them at the kitchen table at the albergue while we talked with a guy from Holland. Until dinnertime I did very little except read and sit in the backyard. It was a nice day out.
Dinner was served at 7:30 and we were seated with two other pilgrims: Hide from Japan and Rebecca from Oregon, who we had met a few days earlier.
Verse written on my arm today: James 3:13
(Written May 30)
We arrived around 12 and after getting settled, headed out in search of food. Once again, there was not much in town, but we stopped in an open supermarket and bought bread, meat, and a few other random things. We ate them at the kitchen table at the albergue while we talked with a guy from Holland. Until dinnertime I did very little except read and sit in the backyard. It was a nice day out.
Dinner was served at 7:30 and we were seated with two other pilgrims: Hide from Japan and Rebecca from Oregon, who we had met a few days earlier.
Verse written on my arm today: James 3:13
(Written May 30)
May 29
We started out a little later than usual this morning. I had been feeling slightly unmotivated to get up and Caleb had not woken up at all. The night before I had been repeatedly woken up by someone moving in their bed. It must have been the girl next to me because she had moved the floor by the morning. There was no snoring, until I thought about how nice and quiet it was. Then someone started snoring.
We left the albergue at 7am and ate our breakfast as we walked. It would only be a 21km day, so we had plenty of time. By 10am we had reached the top of the day's tallest hill and stopped for a sandwich break. Near the end of the days walk a sheperd took a large herd of sheep on the trail in front of us. There was one shepherd, four sheepdogs, and about one hundred sheep. They completely took over the trail and we ended up walking behind them for several hundred meters before they were led off of the side of the trail. I thought it was funny.
We reached the town at noon and entered an albergue that was run by a convent. I took a shower and did my laundry immediately so I could hang my clothes before the hottest part of the day was finished. Next Caleb and I went to explore the town of Santo Domingo.
The shops were closed and there didn't really seem to be much to explore, but we had a snack at a restaurant and walked down a few of the streets looking at buildings and shops. Then we headed back to the albergue and spent some time sitting in the albergue's courtyard and reading.
Around 7pm we went out for dinner. There was a menu de peregrino served at a bar close by, so we went there to eat. I had asparagus, pork loin, and swiss almond cake for dessert. It took us a while to figure out how to pay for a meal. I have never been in a country before where it was difficult to give people money. Eventually we were able to pay and head back to the albergue for the night.
(Written May 29)
We left the albergue at 7am and ate our breakfast as we walked. It would only be a 21km day, so we had plenty of time. By 10am we had reached the top of the day's tallest hill and stopped for a sandwich break. Near the end of the days walk a sheperd took a large herd of sheep on the trail in front of us. There was one shepherd, four sheepdogs, and about one hundred sheep. They completely took over the trail and we ended up walking behind them for several hundred meters before they were led off of the side of the trail. I thought it was funny.
We reached the town at noon and entered an albergue that was run by a convent. I took a shower and did my laundry immediately so I could hang my clothes before the hottest part of the day was finished. Next Caleb and I went to explore the town of Santo Domingo.
The shops were closed and there didn't really seem to be much to explore, but we had a snack at a restaurant and walked down a few of the streets looking at buildings and shops. Then we headed back to the albergue and spent some time sitting in the albergue's courtyard and reading.
Around 7pm we went out for dinner. There was a menu de peregrino served at a bar close by, so we went there to eat. I had asparagus, pork loin, and swiss almond cake for dessert. It took us a while to figure out how to pay for a meal. I have never been in a country before where it was difficult to give people money. Eventually we were able to pay and head back to the albergue for the night.
(Written May 29)
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
May 28
We left the Albergue at our usual time, but soon found a park bench where we could stop and eat our breakfast that we bought the night before at the market. The path was nice and easy, with few uphills. I am not a fast hiker, but I can walk at a pretty decent pace, given that the uphills aren't too steep and don't slow me down.
Around noon we had already gone 20k, but had another 10k to go before reaching Najera. We stopped at a bar on the side of the road for sandwiches for lunch. After lunch we ended up walking behind a guy who sang as he walked. He seemed really joyful about the walk. I would like to seem that joyful as I am hiking. It got hot again and we could not find another place to fill up on water, so we moved slower during the last few km, but eventually made it to Najera.
The Albergue was fairly nice. It was a big building crammed with blue bunk beds. It sort of reminded me of a little boy's bedroom... if there were about 80 boys and they snored and were only seen walking around in pain or massaging their feet. Sorry, terrible metaphor. Caleb and I did our laundry and took showers before heading out to explore the town. I finally found a pharmacy where I could get something for my feet. I think it might actually be aloe vera facial lotion I ended up buying, but it was difficult with the language issue... I am going to try it anyway.
While walking around we found a door painted like the entrance to Moria in the Lord of the Rings. I walked up to it and said 'friend' in every language I knew, but nothing happened. The fantasy nerd in me was a little more upset than the realist in me thought she should be, while the optimist was happy that anyone cared to paint the door at all. The pessimist thought this internal argument was ridiculous, while the obsessed reader just wanted to go back to the Albergue and see what happened next in the Scorpio Races. The obsessed reader won. We went back to the Albergue until dinnertime.
For dinner we visited a cafe that was serving pizza. Each individual pizza came with its very own cutter that resembled an axe. I appriciated this because I have always thought that pizza eating should involve more weaponry. After dinner we visited the candy store to buy gummy worms and then the suprmarket to buy breakfast for the next day before making our way back to the Albergue for the night.
(Written May 28)
Around noon we had already gone 20k, but had another 10k to go before reaching Najera. We stopped at a bar on the side of the road for sandwiches for lunch. After lunch we ended up walking behind a guy who sang as he walked. He seemed really joyful about the walk. I would like to seem that joyful as I am hiking. It got hot again and we could not find another place to fill up on water, so we moved slower during the last few km, but eventually made it to Najera.
The Albergue was fairly nice. It was a big building crammed with blue bunk beds. It sort of reminded me of a little boy's bedroom... if there were about 80 boys and they snored and were only seen walking around in pain or massaging their feet. Sorry, terrible metaphor. Caleb and I did our laundry and took showers before heading out to explore the town. I finally found a pharmacy where I could get something for my feet. I think it might actually be aloe vera facial lotion I ended up buying, but it was difficult with the language issue... I am going to try it anyway.
While walking around we found a door painted like the entrance to Moria in the Lord of the Rings. I walked up to it and said 'friend' in every language I knew, but nothing happened. The fantasy nerd in me was a little more upset than the realist in me thought she should be, while the optimist was happy that anyone cared to paint the door at all. The pessimist thought this internal argument was ridiculous, while the obsessed reader just wanted to go back to the Albergue and see what happened next in the Scorpio Races. The obsessed reader won. We went back to the Albergue until dinnertime.
For dinner we visited a cafe that was serving pizza. Each individual pizza came with its very own cutter that resembled an axe. I appriciated this because I have always thought that pizza eating should involve more weaponry. After dinner we visited the candy store to buy gummy worms and then the suprmarket to buy breakfast for the next day before making our way back to the Albergue for the night.
(Written May 28)
May 27
We woke up early once again, but it was difficult to get ready since the others in our hostel room were still sleeping, so we had no light to work with. There was already breakfast sitting out downstairs when we left our room with our packed backpacks, so we ate in the Albergue's kitchen. There was cereal, cake, meat, bread, and a few other things set out on the table. It was a much better breakfast than we had gotten in most Albergue's so far. Most just served coffee and bread.
The morning was pretty cool, but it was a nice break from the heat I knew would overpower me by the end of the day. It was a long day, though there is little that needs to be said about the hike itself. We stopped at a stand in the morning to buy bananas and a cafe later to buy sandwiches for lunch. The last few km of the day had no shade at all to cover the trail and now there is a sunburn on top of my heat rash. I am still hoping to find a pharmacy somewhere to get something for it. So far every time I have tried the store has been closed.
We reached the Albergue just after 2pm, took showers, and unpacked for the night. There were already people snoring, so I went ahead and got my earplugs our and set them beside my pillow. We were both hungry so we left in search of food and soon found out we were in the middle of ciesta. Ciesta is the time in the middle of the day when shop close down for a few hours. I assume it is for the shop owners to go out and play with small children or puppies, since that is what most people seemed to be doing, or take a nap if they have no children or puppies.
Anyway, so most of the shops were closed, but we found a small cafe that was open where we could eat. Afterwards we went back to the Albergue to do our laundry and try out the wifi, which didn't seem to work. Around 6pm we went out in search for dinner. Most places we found were only serving drinks, but we found a place serving pinchos and ate there. On our way back to the Albergue we visited the supermarket and picked up something for breakfast in the morning. My laundry was still not dry, but I hung it by my bed anyway since I would need to wear it in the morning.
I am not optimistic about the sleeping arrangments for the night. The woman in the bed next to me has been snoring and talking in her sleep since I came in and it's only 8pm. Hopefully I am tired enough that it won't matter.
(Written May 27)
The morning was pretty cool, but it was a nice break from the heat I knew would overpower me by the end of the day. It was a long day, though there is little that needs to be said about the hike itself. We stopped at a stand in the morning to buy bananas and a cafe later to buy sandwiches for lunch. The last few km of the day had no shade at all to cover the trail and now there is a sunburn on top of my heat rash. I am still hoping to find a pharmacy somewhere to get something for it. So far every time I have tried the store has been closed.
We reached the Albergue just after 2pm, took showers, and unpacked for the night. There were already people snoring, so I went ahead and got my earplugs our and set them beside my pillow. We were both hungry so we left in search of food and soon found out we were in the middle of ciesta. Ciesta is the time in the middle of the day when shop close down for a few hours. I assume it is for the shop owners to go out and play with small children or puppies, since that is what most people seemed to be doing, or take a nap if they have no children or puppies.
Anyway, so most of the shops were closed, but we found a small cafe that was open where we could eat. Afterwards we went back to the Albergue to do our laundry and try out the wifi, which didn't seem to work. Around 6pm we went out in search for dinner. Most places we found were only serving drinks, but we found a place serving pinchos and ate there. On our way back to the Albergue we visited the supermarket and picked up something for breakfast in the morning. My laundry was still not dry, but I hung it by my bed anyway since I would need to wear it in the morning.
I am not optimistic about the sleeping arrangments for the night. The woman in the bed next to me has been snoring and talking in her sleep since I came in and it's only 8pm. Hopefully I am tired enough that it won't matter.
(Written May 27)
Saturday, May 26, 2012
May 26
This morning we woke up at 6:00 and were out the door by 6:30. I could already tell the morning air was cooler than it had been the day before. We stopped at a gas station in Estella and bought some packaged doughnuts for breakfast, not very Spanish, I know, but it worked. We sat on a park bench beside a playground before starting back on The Way.
We stopped a little farther down the path at a fountain where we could fill up on water. This fountain had two spouts. One for water and one for wine. I thought that was interesting, though I wasn't really interested in drinking the wine. There weren't many places to stop during our hike, but the day was nicer than yesterday and even though it was still hot, there was more shade.
The path was nice and we could see really far into the distance. This was very cool, except that it made the walk seem much farther than it was. Around 2:00 we made it to Los Arcos and stopped in an Albergue called Casa del la Abuela, which was a very nice Albergue. When we got to our room there was already one pilgrim there. Her name was Eileen and she had taken a bus to the Albergue earlier that day because she was having foot issues. She was waiting for her son and daughter in law to arrive later that day. Eileen told us about the town, the food, and that there would be a festival celebration later that night. Caleb and I took showers.
Three other pilgrims arrived to share our room while we were getting ready. The first was Chen, then Eileens's son Colin and his wife Erica. Caleb and I went to get tapas at a nearby bar, but didn't stay long because the Albergue would be closing at 6:00 and we wouldn't be able to get back in for another hour. We had the corner room at the Albergue, which had a window with a balcony where we hung our wet clothes. It overlooked the town square.
Around 7:00 bulls started to run by. I would describe it was a mini running with the bulls. Three bulls came running up and down the street, while a bunch of people ran away from them. It went on for a long time. Then a marching band when down the streets playing brass instruments as loud as they could. Next they let a fourth bull join in the chase. They referred to this one as the 'pilgrim killer' because it supposedly killed one or two pilgrims every year. Colin went out to join in the running while his wife and mother filmed him and made jokes about his apparent mid life crisis. He survived. The pilgrim killer did not get anyone this year.
I felt bad for the bulls. They all looked old and tired and like they really didn't want to be running anywhere. It was a little sad to watch. The race went on pretty late and Caleb was asleep by the time it was finished so I decided to skip dinner and head to bed instead.
(Written May 26)
We stopped a little farther down the path at a fountain where we could fill up on water. This fountain had two spouts. One for water and one for wine. I thought that was interesting, though I wasn't really interested in drinking the wine. There weren't many places to stop during our hike, but the day was nicer than yesterday and even though it was still hot, there was more shade.
The path was nice and we could see really far into the distance. This was very cool, except that it made the walk seem much farther than it was. Around 2:00 we made it to Los Arcos and stopped in an Albergue called Casa del la Abuela, which was a very nice Albergue. When we got to our room there was already one pilgrim there. Her name was Eileen and she had taken a bus to the Albergue earlier that day because she was having foot issues. She was waiting for her son and daughter in law to arrive later that day. Eileen told us about the town, the food, and that there would be a festival celebration later that night. Caleb and I took showers.
Three other pilgrims arrived to share our room while we were getting ready. The first was Chen, then Eileens's son Colin and his wife Erica. Caleb and I went to get tapas at a nearby bar, but didn't stay long because the Albergue would be closing at 6:00 and we wouldn't be able to get back in for another hour. We had the corner room at the Albergue, which had a window with a balcony where we hung our wet clothes. It overlooked the town square.
Around 7:00 bulls started to run by. I would describe it was a mini running with the bulls. Three bulls came running up and down the street, while a bunch of people ran away from them. It went on for a long time. Then a marching band when down the streets playing brass instruments as loud as they could. Next they let a fourth bull join in the chase. They referred to this one as the 'pilgrim killer' because it supposedly killed one or two pilgrims every year. Colin went out to join in the running while his wife and mother filmed him and made jokes about his apparent mid life crisis. He survived. The pilgrim killer did not get anyone this year.
I felt bad for the bulls. They all looked old and tired and like they really didn't want to be running anywhere. It was a little sad to watch. The race went on pretty late and Caleb was asleep by the time it was finished so I decided to skip dinner and head to bed instead.
(Written May 26)
May 25
Today was hard and the heat was nearly unbearable. By the end of the day we had gone about 37km, which is much too far for one day. We had left the hostel in Pamlona around 6:30, but were slowed down since my card did not seem to be working at any of the ATMs along the way. It worked at the 4th machine and I still don't know what was actually wrong.
We split a baguette for breakfast as we walked. There was a lot of uphill and far too much exposure to the sun. I had to reapply sunblock three times. We stopped at a cafe along the way to eat lunch and take our shoes off for a while.
We reached the town where the book suggested stopping around 1:00, but Caleb wanted to continue on to a town further down the trail. I didn't want to because I thought it was too hot for us to stay outisde, but eventually we decided to head out. It was a bad decision. The sun was hot and the path was mostly uphill. The Albergue in the next town was closed, but Caleb wanted to go to the town after that anyway. The next town was about 3k further.
The albergue in that town was completely full so we would either have to walk another 5k or take a taxi to the next town where the albergue had some free beds. We decided to take the taxi. There was no way we could make it another 5km in the heat and the shape we were in. So for today, we walked 32k and took a taxi another 5km down the road. I don't think we are going to risk hiking that many miles, in that kind of heat again during this trip.
It was around 5:00 when we finally reached the albergue where we would spend the night. It was nicer than I had expected, although there was only one shower. We had dinner at 7:00 and I spent the rest of the night reading and trying to figure out what to do about the heat rash all over my ankles. Sorry if that's too much information, but it really stings!
(Written May 25)
We split a baguette for breakfast as we walked. There was a lot of uphill and far too much exposure to the sun. I had to reapply sunblock three times. We stopped at a cafe along the way to eat lunch and take our shoes off for a while.
We reached the town where the book suggested stopping around 1:00, but Caleb wanted to continue on to a town further down the trail. I didn't want to because I thought it was too hot for us to stay outisde, but eventually we decided to head out. It was a bad decision. The sun was hot and the path was mostly uphill. The Albergue in the next town was closed, but Caleb wanted to go to the town after that anyway. The next town was about 3k further.
The albergue in that town was completely full so we would either have to walk another 5k or take a taxi to the next town where the albergue had some free beds. We decided to take the taxi. There was no way we could make it another 5km in the heat and the shape we were in. So for today, we walked 32k and took a taxi another 5km down the road. I don't think we are going to risk hiking that many miles, in that kind of heat again during this trip.
It was around 5:00 when we finally reached the albergue where we would spend the night. It was nicer than I had expected, although there was only one shower. We had dinner at 7:00 and I spent the rest of the night reading and trying to figure out what to do about the heat rash all over my ankles. Sorry if that's too much information, but it really stings!
(Written May 25)
May 24
We woke up at 6:00 and got our breakfast out of a vending machine. I had a ham croissant (the reminants of which are still in my bag. I should do something about that). There was a small cafe down the path a few km and we stopped there for a few minutes. Several of the pilgrims were already there eating. At this point in the trail we all know each other and so the trail has a friendly feeling. It was hot today and although we were mostly in the shade, I think I may have gotten a sunburn.
We decided to stop a few km early so we could spend some time in Pamplona.
We arrived in the city around 10:30, but the Albergue didn't open until 1:00, so we had some time to kill. We went to a restaurant for tea and sandwiches for about an hour, then we went to a pharmacy to find a knee brace for Caleb since he has an old snowboarding injury acting up on him. Next we spent some time just walking around Pamplona (and using the free internet) until the Albergue opened. The city was a really beautiful place and the buildings were very cool to see.
Once the Albergue was open, we got our stamps and our beds. Then I took a shower before heading back out in search of laundry detergent. We found a small shop close to the Albergue where there was laundry soap and then decided to walk around some more. We ran into Doug, another pilgrim, as he was deciding which restaraunt to visit for a snack. He invited us to join him and we all ventured in for tapas. I don't really know what I ate. I think it was two slices of breaded tomato with cheese and pepper in between like a sandwich. Then we went back to do our laundry. We had bought a bar of soap, so we had to do everything by hand. My pants took a long time to clean because of all of the mud that had been worked into the fabric, but eventually we finished. I spent some time resting and reading while we waited for the dryer to finish with our things. Once done, we went out for dinner. We ended up at a restaurant about a half an hour before it opened, but the waiter seated us and gave us some bread anyway. Dinner was good, but there wasn't anything that seemed particularly Spanish, though I did have some good cold tomato soup.
After dinner we walked some more (this seems like a lot of walking for people who should be tired, doesn't it?). At one point we walked down a street and were suddenly surrounded by about 20 middle aged rollerskaters. I am not sure exactly what was happening, but it looked funny. I just wish they had all been snapping and singing show tunes as they went. We bought a baguette at a nearby store before heading back for the night.
And now for the segment you have all been waiting for... Awkward bathroom situations with Owl! This was the first Albergue we visited that had a unisex bathroom. Not just a one room unisex bathroom, but a full one with showers and everything. I checked the bathroom several times to see if it was clear of guys and I finally got to shower after the 3rd try. While I was brushing my teeth two different guys came in, stared at me with shocked expressions and ran back to the door to check the sign again. I left as soon as I could. For the rest of our stay I only used the one room handicap bathroom. I don't like getting weird looks while I am flossing.
(Written May 24)
We arrived in the city around 10:30, but the Albergue didn't open until 1:00, so we had some time to kill. We went to a restaurant for tea and sandwiches for about an hour, then we went to a pharmacy to find a knee brace for Caleb since he has an old snowboarding injury acting up on him. Next we spent some time just walking around Pamplona (and using the free internet) until the Albergue opened. The city was a really beautiful place and the buildings were very cool to see.
Once the Albergue was open, we got our stamps and our beds. Then I took a shower before heading back out in search of laundry detergent. We found a small shop close to the Albergue where there was laundry soap and then decided to walk around some more. We ran into Doug, another pilgrim, as he was deciding which restaraunt to visit for a snack. He invited us to join him and we all ventured in for tapas. I don't really know what I ate. I think it was two slices of breaded tomato with cheese and pepper in between like a sandwich. Then we went back to do our laundry. We had bought a bar of soap, so we had to do everything by hand. My pants took a long time to clean because of all of the mud that had been worked into the fabric, but eventually we finished. I spent some time resting and reading while we waited for the dryer to finish with our things. Once done, we went out for dinner. We ended up at a restaurant about a half an hour before it opened, but the waiter seated us and gave us some bread anyway. Dinner was good, but there wasn't anything that seemed particularly Spanish, though I did have some good cold tomato soup.
After dinner we walked some more (this seems like a lot of walking for people who should be tired, doesn't it?). At one point we walked down a street and were suddenly surrounded by about 20 middle aged rollerskaters. I am not sure exactly what was happening, but it looked funny. I just wish they had all been snapping and singing show tunes as they went. We bought a baguette at a nearby store before heading back for the night.
And now for the segment you have all been waiting for... Awkward bathroom situations with Owl! This was the first Albergue we visited that had a unisex bathroom. Not just a one room unisex bathroom, but a full one with showers and everything. I checked the bathroom several times to see if it was clear of guys and I finally got to shower after the 3rd try. While I was brushing my teeth two different guys came in, stared at me with shocked expressions and ran back to the door to check the sign again. I left as soon as I could. For the rest of our stay I only used the one room handicap bathroom. I don't like getting weird looks while I am flossing.
(Written May 24)
Thursday, May 24, 2012
May 23
Caleb and I left the albergue at around 0645. It was foggy and cold in the morning, but the sky quickly became clear, leaving the rest of the day warm and sunny. We had already gone nearly halfway when we stopped for breakfast at a cafe on the side of the path. We ate sandwiches while cats begged us for food. It was really sad.
As we walked the route had a lot of ups and downs. It was a much easier day than the day before simply because it was rolling instead of uphill and warm instead of rainy and cold. The day was still long and we had 27k to walk.
We passed the town of Zubiri on our way to Larrasoana and stopped at a creek just outside of it to rinse the mud off of my pant legs. We made it to the albergue by 1430. Since we have been making good time I am hoping we can do more miles soon and be able to make it to Santiago. The albergue was much smaller than the last one, but still had showers, which is all I really cared about. We didn't have much to do for the hours between our arrival and dinner, so we spent our time reading, talking with other pilgrims, and walking around town. There wasn't much to see in town, so walking around didn't take much time.
The pilgrim's dinner was at 1900. All of the pilgrims sat at large tables together to eat. I had salad, beef stew, and ice cream. It was interesting to be able to talk to some other pilgrims over dinner and hear their stories. Straight after dinner we all went back to the albergue. It was the best nights sleep I had on the trip so far because I remembered to unpack my earplugs.
(Written May 23)
As we walked the route had a lot of ups and downs. It was a much easier day than the day before simply because it was rolling instead of uphill and warm instead of rainy and cold. The day was still long and we had 27k to walk.
We passed the town of Zubiri on our way to Larrasoana and stopped at a creek just outside of it to rinse the mud off of my pant legs. We made it to the albergue by 1430. Since we have been making good time I am hoping we can do more miles soon and be able to make it to Santiago. The albergue was much smaller than the last one, but still had showers, which is all I really cared about. We didn't have much to do for the hours between our arrival and dinner, so we spent our time reading, talking with other pilgrims, and walking around town. There wasn't much to see in town, so walking around didn't take much time.
The pilgrim's dinner was at 1900. All of the pilgrims sat at large tables together to eat. I had salad, beef stew, and ice cream. It was interesting to be able to talk to some other pilgrims over dinner and hear their stories. Straight after dinner we all went back to the albergue. It was the best nights sleep I had on the trip so far because I remembered to unpack my earplugs.
(Written May 23)
May 22
On our second morning we woke up at 6am. Breakfast was served at 6:30am, so we packed our things and went to the breakfast room. I'm not really sure what was happening, since everyone was speaking in French, but they gave us some jam, toast and hot chocolate, so everything was alright.
After the meal we headed for the path. It was raining, windy and freezing for most of the day. That part of the day wasn't fun, but the hike was. We had 25 km, or about 15 miles to go over the Pyrenese mountain range. We were originally planning to take the alternate route because of the weather, but it turned out to be clear enough and there were enough hikers around for us to take the main route safely.
We passed lots of cows and ponies, some horses, a donkey, and a ton of slugs along the way. At about 8km we stopped at Refuge Auberge d'Orisson. It was a pretty cool place that looked like a log cabin. The guy who worked there was very nice, though he didn't speak English and I don't speak French, so we didn't have a proper conversation. There we ate some soup and bought some sandwiches to eat farther down the trail for lunch before venturing back out into the cold. This time we didn't stop until we reached Roncevaux. There was not another place to stop along the trail and the weather didn't permit us to sit down and take a break beside the trail. It was probably a bad idea not to stop, but there really wasn't a good place. We got out our sandwiches and ate them as we walked in the rain. They were really good and I wished I had gotten a second one to eat during our walk. We crossed over the top of the Pyrenese in a cloud of fog. I am still not certain of what the view from the top looks like.
We reached Roncevaux at about 2:45pm with two other pilgrims. The pilgrim office was closed when we arrived, so we didn't know where we should go until another pilgrim walked by and pointed us towards a place with beds and hot showers. We got our passports stamped at the Albergue de Peregrinos, then found our beds where we would spend the night. This Albergue was huge. It had about one hundred beds divided into groups of four and put into cubicles. Caleb and I shared our cubicle with a French guy and a man who I think was from Japan. I headed straight for the showers, which had real hot water! As opposed to fake hot water, as you probably guessed. Caleb was asleep when I got back to our cubicle, so I spent some time reading.
When he woke up we went to find dinner, but the restaurant didn't open until 7pm, so we had some time to kill. We decided to explore the world of Albergue laundry washing. Very exciting, I know. We washed our clothes in the sink, then put them in the spinner, and finally hung them up to dry. We went to check out the vending machines while we waited. It didn't like my money, but decided to give Caleb three chocolate croissants instead of one. I decided to take that as an apology. Then we went to the pilgrim's dinner. It turned out to be soup, fish and chips and yogurt. A man from Holland named Hans sat with us for dinner. He thought we were the people he had walked into town with, but stayed anyway when he realized we weren't. He was pretty interesting and had waked all the way from Holland. I would have liked to listen closer, but I got distracted when my fish's eyeball fell out and started rollong around in my fries. I had never eaten a fish with its head still on before (that I can remember, at least) and I didn't know that fish eyes were fond of hide and seek or the proper ettiquete for removing from one's chips.
Anywho... After dinner we headed back to the Albergue for the night and did nothing else interesting. (Written May 22)
We passed lots of cows and ponies, some horses, a donkey, and a ton of slugs along the way. At about 8km we stopped at Refuge Auberge d'Orisson. It was a pretty cool place that looked like a log cabin. The guy who worked there was very nice, though he didn't speak English and I don't speak French, so we didn't have a proper conversation. There we ate some soup and bought some sandwiches to eat farther down the trail for lunch before venturing back out into the cold. This time we didn't stop until we reached Roncevaux. There was not another place to stop along the trail and the weather didn't permit us to sit down and take a break beside the trail. It was probably a bad idea not to stop, but there really wasn't a good place. We got out our sandwiches and ate them as we walked in the rain. They were really good and I wished I had gotten a second one to eat during our walk. We crossed over the top of the Pyrenese in a cloud of fog. I am still not certain of what the view from the top looks like.
We reached Roncevaux at about 2:45pm with two other pilgrims. The pilgrim office was closed when we arrived, so we didn't know where we should go until another pilgrim walked by and pointed us towards a place with beds and hot showers. We got our passports stamped at the Albergue de Peregrinos, then found our beds where we would spend the night. This Albergue was huge. It had about one hundred beds divided into groups of four and put into cubicles. Caleb and I shared our cubicle with a French guy and a man who I think was from Japan. I headed straight for the showers, which had real hot water! As opposed to fake hot water, as you probably guessed. Caleb was asleep when I got back to our cubicle, so I spent some time reading.
When he woke up we went to find dinner, but the restaurant didn't open until 7pm, so we had some time to kill. We decided to explore the world of Albergue laundry washing. Very exciting, I know. We washed our clothes in the sink, then put them in the spinner, and finally hung them up to dry. We went to check out the vending machines while we waited. It didn't like my money, but decided to give Caleb three chocolate croissants instead of one. I decided to take that as an apology. Then we went to the pilgrim's dinner. It turned out to be soup, fish and chips and yogurt. A man from Holland named Hans sat with us for dinner. He thought we were the people he had walked into town with, but stayed anyway when he realized we weren't. He was pretty interesting and had waked all the way from Holland. I would have liked to listen closer, but I got distracted when my fish's eyeball fell out and started rollong around in my fries. I had never eaten a fish with its head still on before (that I can remember, at least) and I didn't know that fish eyes were fond of hide and seek or the proper ettiquete for removing from one's chips.
Anywho... After dinner we headed back to the Albergue for the night and did nothing else interesting. (Written May 22)
Travel Days
I am not really sure what I should write for my first blog entry. Less than one month ago I was packing up my cabin on the MV Explorer and heading home. Now, after a few short weeks and three plane rides, my brother and I have arrived in Spain. We saw the movie The Way before my voyage with SAS and decided we wanted to hike the El Camino de Santiago this summer. We only have 30 days for this trip, so we may or may not reach Santago during this time, but even so, I am excited for Spain!
Mom drove Caleb and I to the airport at 4am to catch our flight. The first one took us to Miami, where we had a 6 hr layover. We spent most of it trying to recharge our nook tablets so we would have something to read during the next flight. The next flight was an over night to Madrid, which took about 9 hrs. I was sitting next to a couple of kids on the flight who were so happy to be on the flight that they spent the night screaming about it. That was not sarcasm. There were literally screams of happiness keeping me up that night. Then we had a 3 hr layover in Madrid. Thankfully, that flight was only an hour long and I slept through most of it.
We had a driver pick us up in Pamplona and take us to St. Jean, where we would start our hike. Now I have been to France and Spain! It was cold and rainy, so I am glad we didn't start our hike that day. The driver's name was Gale. He showed me several places where the road intersected the trail on the way and dropped us off just over the border in France near the pilgrim office. At the pilgrim office a man gave us our first stamps in our Camino passports, as well as a bunch of information on the trail, and beds for the night in a nearby Albergue. We deposited our things in the room in the Albergue, which we would share with four other people, and then spent some time walking around the town.
St. Jean was a really cool town with lots of really interesting things to take pictures of, even in the rain. We stopped in a cafe for dinner, but ended up just getting crepes. We were pretty wet and cold once we had made a complete circle back to the refuge, so we decided to take a break and get warmed up. After that we headed out for a second attempt to find dinner. This time we found a pizza place and I decided to get a salad even though I was no longer hungry. After dinner we headed back to the Albergue for the night. Our room consists of three bunk beds and 6 pilgrims. I am hoping they don't all snore.
(Written May 21)
Mom drove Caleb and I to the airport at 4am to catch our flight. The first one took us to Miami, where we had a 6 hr layover. We spent most of it trying to recharge our nook tablets so we would have something to read during the next flight. The next flight was an over night to Madrid, which took about 9 hrs. I was sitting next to a couple of kids on the flight who were so happy to be on the flight that they spent the night screaming about it. That was not sarcasm. There were literally screams of happiness keeping me up that night. Then we had a 3 hr layover in Madrid. Thankfully, that flight was only an hour long and I slept through most of it.
We had a driver pick us up in Pamplona and take us to St. Jean, where we would start our hike. Now I have been to France and Spain! It was cold and rainy, so I am glad we didn't start our hike that day. The driver's name was Gale. He showed me several places where the road intersected the trail on the way and dropped us off just over the border in France near the pilgrim office. At the pilgrim office a man gave us our first stamps in our Camino passports, as well as a bunch of information on the trail, and beds for the night in a nearby Albergue. We deposited our things in the room in the Albergue, which we would share with four other people, and then spent some time walking around the town.
St. Jean was a really cool town with lots of really interesting things to take pictures of, even in the rain. We stopped in a cafe for dinner, but ended up just getting crepes. We were pretty wet and cold once we had made a complete circle back to the refuge, so we decided to take a break and get warmed up. After that we headed out for a second attempt to find dinner. This time we found a pizza place and I decided to get a salad even though I was no longer hungry. After dinner we headed back to the Albergue for the night. Our room consists of three bunk beds and 6 pilgrims. I am hoping they don't all snore.
(Written May 21)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)