We got up before sunrise and started to pack our things. It was 5am. We wanted to start earlier today because it would be a longer day than the ones before. We left in the dark and started walking. I accidentally left my towel hanging on the laundry rack and didn’t realize it until much too late.
Around 8:30 we stopped for tea and pastries at a little café. If we had not gone so far the day before we would have stopped there for the night.
We kept walking until 11am, when we took a quick lunch break.
There was little about the hike that was different than the other days, except that it was muddy. We spent a lot of time hiking across mesas, which was pretty cool. The sky wasn’t sure how it felt today. For most of the morning it was drizzling, but then the sun came out for a while. The entire day was pretty cloudy. Thankfully, it didn’t rain hard.
We got to the albergue in Fromista around 2:30pm and checked in, took showers, got settled, did laundry, etc. We had planned to take a bus to Leon so we could skip a few days and be sure to make it to Santiago before I had to fly home, but the tourist office was closed. We talked about it for a little while and decided to try to push a little faster and see if we could make it on foot. I didn’t feel sore at all after our 35k day, so hopefully we are in good enough shape to make it at this point.
I fell asleep for about an hour and afterwards we went out in search of a café.
We ended up getting some ice cream and hanging out at a café on the street. At 7pm we got dinner. We were pretty tired, so we headed back to the albergue for the night. It is a little weird, but it seems my biggest fear is that someone will steal my earplugs and I will never be able to sleep again. Although it is slightly ridiculous, I still keep them on my person at all times to make sure I don’t lose them.
I had a great idea for my novel today, but I didn’t bring the right journal with me. All I had with me was a small notebook. I must have been insane to think it was safe to leave my journal behind.
(Written June 3)
Friday, June 29, 2012
June 2
We left just as the sun was coming up. The sky was clear of clouds and the threat of rain had passed. Originally this stage only had 21k for us to hike. We stopped in a small café around 9:30am for tea and free wifi. At this point we had already gone 13k. The owner of the shop was very nice and gave us pendants to hang on our packs. He explained to me what they were for, but since he was speaking Spanish, I still don’t know. Anyway, they are engraved with a picture of Mary (I think), so I am sure it is something good. The owner had a little terrier that kept me company while I drank my tea. I think he wanted to share, but I don’t think puppies drink tea.
We reached the end of the stage around 11am with plenty of daylight left. We ended up getting sandwiches and talking with Rebecca and a French-Canadian pilgrim (he didn’t mention his name) before deciding to keep going. Hontanas was the next town and it was only 10k away. Since we had been pretty fast we figured we could get there by 2pm and we did.
Hontanas was a really cool town to walk into. It was at the bottom of a valley and was completely hidden by the hills before it suddenly appeared. It seems like the location for flooding or attacks, were we in the middle ages, but it looked really cool. We checked into the albergue, took showers, and did our laundry. I guess that is our usual routine, so I probably don’t need to keep writing every day. Next we went out to the supermarket to buy the next morning’s breakfast since we would be getting up early to get to Fromista and then bought some sandwiches at a café before heading back to the albergue to read while we waited for dinnertime. I spent most of the time reading the Hobbit and writing terrible poetry.
At 7pm we headed to a restaurant where they had a menu de peregrino. Halfway through dinner they seated a couple of women at the table with us. I would have liked to talk to them, but they were in a pretty deep conversation in another language. Afterwards, we went back to the albergue for the night. James 1:17
(Written June 2nd)
We reached the end of the stage around 11am with plenty of daylight left. We ended up getting sandwiches and talking with Rebecca and a French-Canadian pilgrim (he didn’t mention his name) before deciding to keep going. Hontanas was the next town and it was only 10k away. Since we had been pretty fast we figured we could get there by 2pm and we did.
Hontanas was a really cool town to walk into. It was at the bottom of a valley and was completely hidden by the hills before it suddenly appeared. It seems like the location for flooding or attacks, were we in the middle ages, but it looked really cool. We checked into the albergue, took showers, and did our laundry. I guess that is our usual routine, so I probably don’t need to keep writing every day. Next we went out to the supermarket to buy the next morning’s breakfast since we would be getting up early to get to Fromista and then bought some sandwiches at a café before heading back to the albergue to read while we waited for dinnertime. I spent most of the time reading the Hobbit and writing terrible poetry.
At 7pm we headed to a restaurant where they had a menu de peregrino. Halfway through dinner they seated a couple of women at the table with us. I would have liked to talk to them, but they were in a pretty deep conversation in another language. Afterwards, we went back to the albergue for the night. James 1:17
(Written June 2nd)
Thursday, June 7, 2012
June 1
We left the albergue at 6:30 without breakfast, but after a few km we found a bar on the side of the path where we could stop for some food. Rebecca walked up soon after and joined us at our table.
The three of us started back on The Way.
It was not a long day, but it felt longer because we ended up walking along a main road for several km and everything looked very industrial. We passed several lamp stores and if we had been in an episode of Top Gear and had vehicles, I would have seriously considered buying someone a chandelier. Once we reached Burgos the scenery began to change. Instead of the ugly asphalt streets, the road turned to cobblestone and was lined with cool little shops.
We got the to the albergue about a half an hour before it opened and sat down to wait outside with the other pilgrims. The doors opened at noon and we went inside to check in. The guy at the counter actually asked if I was Caleb's sister. He was the first person to get it right. Everyone else asks if I am either his brother or his wife. I am not sure which is worse. I am just assuming sister is not a common word to know in English like brother is. There is no way I look like a guy. We got showers and settled in before heading out in search of lunch.
We found a place where the menu said "we speak English" in big letters and decided to go there. The guy who ran the place definitely spoke very good English. He made us kababs and french fries before we went off to explore the town. We ended up getting ice cream and walking around for a while before heading back to the albergue during ciesta. We had found some laundry soap at the store and washed our clothes. We spent some time reading while everything was closed down, but then went to explore some more once everything had opened back up.
Around dinner time we decided we weren't too hungry and just bought supplies at the store to make ourselves something to eat. We put some sandwhiches together and ate in the albergue's kitchen. We ended up staying there for about an hour and talking to some other pilgrims. It was a good night, but it started to rain. Hopefully it clears up before tomorrow!
(Written June 1)
It was not a long day, but it felt longer because we ended up walking along a main road for several km and everything looked very industrial. We passed several lamp stores and if we had been in an episode of Top Gear and had vehicles, I would have seriously considered buying someone a chandelier. Once we reached Burgos the scenery began to change. Instead of the ugly asphalt streets, the road turned to cobblestone and was lined with cool little shops.
We got the to the albergue about a half an hour before it opened and sat down to wait outside with the other pilgrims. The doors opened at noon and we went inside to check in. The guy at the counter actually asked if I was Caleb's sister. He was the first person to get it right. Everyone else asks if I am either his brother or his wife. I am not sure which is worse. I am just assuming sister is not a common word to know in English like brother is. There is no way I look like a guy. We got showers and settled in before heading out in search of lunch.
We found a place where the menu said "we speak English" in big letters and decided to go there. The guy who ran the place definitely spoke very good English. He made us kababs and french fries before we went off to explore the town. We ended up getting ice cream and walking around for a while before heading back to the albergue during ciesta. We had found some laundry soap at the store and washed our clothes. We spent some time reading while everything was closed down, but then went to explore some more once everything had opened back up.
Around dinner time we decided we weren't too hungry and just bought supplies at the store to make ourselves something to eat. We put some sandwhiches together and ate in the albergue's kitchen. We ended up staying there for about an hour and talking to some other pilgrims. It was a good night, but it started to rain. Hopefully it clears up before tomorrow!
(Written June 1)
May 31
The albergue served breakfast at 7am. It was fairly simple, like most albergue breakfasts and had bread, jam, and a few other things.
We started on the way early and only took a few breaks during the day. The first was to fill up on water, the second to get soda and ice cream, and the third to get a snack. Although the elevation map showed the path having a lot of uphills and downhills, it wasn't very difficult. We reached the town where we were supposed to stay around 1pm and looked around in a nearby church before heading to a cafe for a little while. Neither of us were very tired and since it was only another 3.6km to the next town we decided to keep walking.
The rest of the walk went by fast as well and we ended up in the town of Ages. We checked into the albergue and immediately took showers. Next we went out to look for a market and buy laundry soap since we left ours in Santo Domingo by accident, but there didn't seem to be a store anywhere. Aside from the 4 albergues, the town was all residential. It was like a ghost town. The only people I saw that weren't pilgrims were running the albergue. We gave up and decided to look in the next town for a market.
We spent some time just hanging around and reading before dinner at 7pm. I had pilaf, salmon, and ice cream. They were playing Castle on the tv in the dining room, so I ended up watching that while I ate, even though it was dubbed over in Spanish and I couldn't tell what was happening. The heat was not near as bad today and we were able to stay mostly in the shade. My neck still got a sunburn, though. I am hoping the weather is able to stay like this for a few days at least. Burgos tomorrow!
(Written May 31)
The rest of the walk went by fast as well and we ended up in the town of Ages. We checked into the albergue and immediately took showers. Next we went out to look for a market and buy laundry soap since we left ours in Santo Domingo by accident, but there didn't seem to be a store anywhere. Aside from the 4 albergues, the town was all residential. It was like a ghost town. The only people I saw that weren't pilgrims were running the albergue. We gave up and decided to look in the next town for a market.
We spent some time just hanging around and reading before dinner at 7pm. I had pilaf, salmon, and ice cream. They were playing Castle on the tv in the dining room, so I ended up watching that while I ate, even though it was dubbed over in Spanish and I couldn't tell what was happening. The heat was not near as bad today and we were able to stay mostly in the shade. My neck still got a sunburn, though. I am hoping the weather is able to stay like this for a few days at least. Burgos tomorrow!
(Written May 31)
May 30
We left the hostel, around 6:45, but had to stop at the vending machines for breakfast, where Caleb realized he forgot his knee brace and we had to go back and get it. Then we left the town for real.
The hike was only 20km, but it seemed longer because we could not find a place to stop for lunch. Aside from one stop to refill our water and another to buy soda at a machine, we didn't stop walking.
At one point a man drove down the road handing out water bottles. He was from an albergue called Cuantro Cantones and according to the label on the bottle, it was their 10th anniversary.
We arrived around 12 and after getting settled, headed out in search of food. Once again, there was not much in town, but we stopped in an open supermarket and bought bread, meat, and a few other random things. We ate them at the kitchen table at the albergue while we talked with a guy from Holland. Until dinnertime I did very little except read and sit in the backyard. It was a nice day out.
Dinner was served at 7:30 and we were seated with two other pilgrims: Hide from Japan and Rebecca from Oregon, who we had met a few days earlier.
Verse written on my arm today: James 3:13
(Written May 30)
We arrived around 12 and after getting settled, headed out in search of food. Once again, there was not much in town, but we stopped in an open supermarket and bought bread, meat, and a few other random things. We ate them at the kitchen table at the albergue while we talked with a guy from Holland. Until dinnertime I did very little except read and sit in the backyard. It was a nice day out.
Dinner was served at 7:30 and we were seated with two other pilgrims: Hide from Japan and Rebecca from Oregon, who we had met a few days earlier.
Verse written on my arm today: James 3:13
(Written May 30)
May 29
We started out a little later than usual this morning. I had been feeling slightly unmotivated to get up and Caleb had not woken up at all. The night before I had been repeatedly woken up by someone moving in their bed. It must have been the girl next to me because she had moved the floor by the morning. There was no snoring, until I thought about how nice and quiet it was. Then someone started snoring.
We left the albergue at 7am and ate our breakfast as we walked. It would only be a 21km day, so we had plenty of time. By 10am we had reached the top of the day's tallest hill and stopped for a sandwich break. Near the end of the days walk a sheperd took a large herd of sheep on the trail in front of us. There was one shepherd, four sheepdogs, and about one hundred sheep. They completely took over the trail and we ended up walking behind them for several hundred meters before they were led off of the side of the trail. I thought it was funny.
We reached the town at noon and entered an albergue that was run by a convent. I took a shower and did my laundry immediately so I could hang my clothes before the hottest part of the day was finished. Next Caleb and I went to explore the town of Santo Domingo.
The shops were closed and there didn't really seem to be much to explore, but we had a snack at a restaurant and walked down a few of the streets looking at buildings and shops. Then we headed back to the albergue and spent some time sitting in the albergue's courtyard and reading.
Around 7pm we went out for dinner. There was a menu de peregrino served at a bar close by, so we went there to eat. I had asparagus, pork loin, and swiss almond cake for dessert. It took us a while to figure out how to pay for a meal. I have never been in a country before where it was difficult to give people money. Eventually we were able to pay and head back to the albergue for the night.
(Written May 29)
We left the albergue at 7am and ate our breakfast as we walked. It would only be a 21km day, so we had plenty of time. By 10am we had reached the top of the day's tallest hill and stopped for a sandwich break. Near the end of the days walk a sheperd took a large herd of sheep on the trail in front of us. There was one shepherd, four sheepdogs, and about one hundred sheep. They completely took over the trail and we ended up walking behind them for several hundred meters before they were led off of the side of the trail. I thought it was funny.
We reached the town at noon and entered an albergue that was run by a convent. I took a shower and did my laundry immediately so I could hang my clothes before the hottest part of the day was finished. Next Caleb and I went to explore the town of Santo Domingo.
The shops were closed and there didn't really seem to be much to explore, but we had a snack at a restaurant and walked down a few of the streets looking at buildings and shops. Then we headed back to the albergue and spent some time sitting in the albergue's courtyard and reading.
Around 7pm we went out for dinner. There was a menu de peregrino served at a bar close by, so we went there to eat. I had asparagus, pork loin, and swiss almond cake for dessert. It took us a while to figure out how to pay for a meal. I have never been in a country before where it was difficult to give people money. Eventually we were able to pay and head back to the albergue for the night.
(Written May 29)
Thursday, May 31, 2012
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